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Witaj. Poczytaj sobie o Picture Style. 30D przewala np. czerwony kolor w niektórych sytuacjach. Warto wtedy przełączyć aparat na "łagodnieszy" styl dla koloru, np. Neutral. Możesz sobie w CF ustawić jakiś "szybki" przycisk zmiany PS.
Ja już nikogo w rodzinie nie przekonuję, że lustrzanka za chore pieniądze jest lepsza od kompakta. Mój 30D przegrywa we wszystkim z S80 podczas rodzinnych imprezek
Teraz testuję takie ustawienia:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1032&message=18411077
..As the exsiting settings (factory) are usable on scenes that
naturally exhibit low contrast.
The important thing to understand here is:
1. What levels of contrast (naturally-occuring) do you face on your
typical work / scenes?
2. There *will not* be a single Picture Style that will get the job
done. I personally use a stack of three styles, with an additional
two for extreme cases.
Here they are:
Standard: 2,-2,-1,0
==> For general indoor/outdoor, flash,
==> For use with scenes with mid-hi naturally-occurring contrast
==> Very good skin tones, IMPRESSIVE RED-color rendering.
==> Tonal Reproduction Curve (TRC) used here favors MIDTONES detail,
for a film-like reproduction of contrast (but still better
brightness).
Landscape: 2,-2,-1,0
==> For regular use in scenery, landscaping, still-life
==> For use with scenes with high naturally-occurring contrast
==> Saturation levels in tandem with contrast setting (protects REDs)
==> Still very good skin tones (!)
==> Tonal Reproduction Curve (TRC) used here favors SHADOW detail.
Neutral: 2,-2,0,0
==> For optimal skin-colors in portraiture, especially on studio.
==> For use with scenes with mid-high naturally-occurring contrast
==> Excellent skin tones under flash, hot-shoe or stand-alone (via
STE2).
==> Tonal Reproduction Curve (TRC) used here favors SHADOW detail
UserDef1: -2,-1,0,0,LANDSCAPE
==> For use in scenery, landscaping, still-life
==> For use with scenes with very-high naturally-occurring contrast
==> Rich, saturated colors, without looking "electric".
==> Tonal Reproduction Curve (TRC) used here favors SHADOW AND
HIGHLIGHTS detail.
UserDef2: -2,-1,0,0,NEUTRAL
==> For accurate skin-colors in high-dynamic range portraiture.
==> For use with scenes with very-high naturally-occurring contrast
==> Neutrally-saturated colors, not under/over-done.
==> Tonal Reproduction Curve (TRC) used here favors SHADOW AND
HIGHLIGHTS detail.
This applies to the 1DMKIIn, and for the most part, to our 30D. The
30D washes out colors a bit more, because its overly-sensitive, and,
if ot EV-comp'd @ -0.3EV, it will de-saturate colors. The 1DMKIIN
provides a film-like output of contrast, in general, but packs some
sort of crispness concentrated in mid-tones that the 30D shows as
being slightly spreaded beyond the midtones, and into the highlights
(slightly washed).
In any case, all settings are very, very usable in the 30D, and they
should provide almost identical results on the 5D.
Happy shooting!
Ja już nikogo w rodzinie nie przekonuję, że lustrzanka za chore pieniądze jest lepsza od kompakta. Mój 30D przegrywa we wszystkim z S80 podczas rodzinnych imprezek
Teraz testuję takie ustawienia:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1032&message=18411077
..As the exsiting settings (factory) are usable on scenes that
naturally exhibit low contrast.
The important thing to understand here is:
1. What levels of contrast (naturally-occuring) do you face on your
typical work / scenes?
2. There *will not* be a single Picture Style that will get the job
done. I personally use a stack of three styles, with an additional
two for extreme cases.
Here they are:
Standard: 2,-2,-1,0
==> For general indoor/outdoor, flash,
==> For use with scenes with mid-hi naturally-occurring contrast
==> Very good skin tones, IMPRESSIVE RED-color rendering.
==> Tonal Reproduction Curve (TRC) used here favors MIDTONES detail,
for a film-like reproduction of contrast (but still better
brightness).
Landscape: 2,-2,-1,0
==> For regular use in scenery, landscaping, still-life
==> For use with scenes with high naturally-occurring contrast
==> Saturation levels in tandem with contrast setting (protects REDs)
==> Still very good skin tones (!)
==> Tonal Reproduction Curve (TRC) used here favors SHADOW detail.
Neutral: 2,-2,0,0
==> For optimal skin-colors in portraiture, especially on studio.
==> For use with scenes with mid-high naturally-occurring contrast
==> Excellent skin tones under flash, hot-shoe or stand-alone (via
STE2).
==> Tonal Reproduction Curve (TRC) used here favors SHADOW detail
UserDef1: -2,-1,0,0,LANDSCAPE
==> For use in scenery, landscaping, still-life
==> For use with scenes with very-high naturally-occurring contrast
==> Rich, saturated colors, without looking "electric".
==> Tonal Reproduction Curve (TRC) used here favors SHADOW AND
HIGHLIGHTS detail.
UserDef2: -2,-1,0,0,NEUTRAL
==> For accurate skin-colors in high-dynamic range portraiture.
==> For use with scenes with very-high naturally-occurring contrast
==> Neutrally-saturated colors, not under/over-done.
==> Tonal Reproduction Curve (TRC) used here favors SHADOW AND
HIGHLIGHTS detail.
This applies to the 1DMKIIn, and for the most part, to our 30D. The
30D washes out colors a bit more, because its overly-sensitive, and,
if ot EV-comp'd @ -0.3EV, it will de-saturate colors. The 1DMKIIN
provides a film-like output of contrast, in general, but packs some
sort of crispness concentrated in mid-tones that the 30D shows as
being slightly spreaded beyond the midtones, and into the highlights
(slightly washed).
In any case, all settings are very, very usable in the 30D, and they
should provide almost identical results on the 5D.
Happy shooting!
Sprzet masz super i jak tylko nauczysz sie zyc z nim w zgodzie to zobaczysz na co go stac 
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